A wild flower garden, just like any garden you wish to plant, requires good quality soil that will meet the needs of the plants you put in it. That means that your garden soil may need some amendment. So why do you need to amend the soil and how do you do it?

The answer to both of these Wholesale lrrigation lmpact Sprinklers Manufacturers questions depends on what you intend to plant and the soil in your garden. First, let us look at why you might need soil amendment. The ground may have been stripped of topsoil as most often happens in newly built areas. Such areas are often left with compacted soil due to construction. Another reason is that the pH balance may not be at the desired level. pH (parts hydrogen) is a number that indicates the acidity or alkalinity of your soil/alkaline balance. This is important because the acid/alkaline levels of your soil controls the availability of some food elements in the soil.

So how do you amend the soil? The first step You can purchase a soil testing kit from your local hardware or garden center and follow the included instructions to test the soil. Also follow the instructions for the amount and type of amendments you need to add. Adding the amendments to your soil will help restore the nutrients, minerals and pH balance to give your plants a great head start. Choosing plants that are native to your location will help enormously.

You are now at the stage where you have designed your new wild flower garden, installed your hardscaping, prepared the ground, amended the soil and purchased your plants and seeds. Time to plant up your garden...so what are your waiting for...start planting. Enjoy your new wild flower garden, you worked hard and you deserve it.

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Looking for a fun way to exercise and stay healthy? Doctors say that rebound exercising is one of the healthiest, safest kinds of exercise for your joints and heart. It's aerobic, it's fun, and it doesn't put the same stress on your joints and 8 PATTERN BACK TRIGGER PISTOL tendons that impact exercise like jogging does. What's rebounding? You probably know it better as 'jumping on a trampoline.

Trampolines for the garden or yard have become one of the hottest sports in the world. And why not? It's great for you. You can do it alone or with others. You can use a trampoline to help you brush up on other skills - snowboarding, anyone? A trampoline in your back yard or garden is like having a gym right outside your door.

Alone or with others? Trampolining is a recognized Olympic sport, and was one of the official gymnastics events of the 2000 Olympics. It has been an official competitive sport since 1947, though it wasn't recognized as one in the United States until 1967. Among the events that are held in official competitive trampolining and tumbling are Synchronized Trampoline in which two athletes perform identical routines on two trampolines, and the double mini-trampoline, in which one athlete performs on two mini-trampolines set at two different levels. Just think - a trampoline for your yard or garden could start your family off on the road to competitive success!

Even if you've got no ambitions to become a tumbling superstar, though, the health and fun benefits of having a trampoline in your yard/garden are clear.

To set up a trampoline, all you need is a backyard that is clear of obstruction around the width and height of the trampoline and for about 15 feet beyond. Trampolines come in many different sizes and styles to fit your space and your needs. Round, square, rectangular or octagonal, in sizes from 6 feet across to 30 - there's a trampoline out there that's perfect for your yard or garden space.

Rectangular trampolines are generally made of more durable materials than round ones because the design requires stronger materials. They have criss-crossed springs to draw the tension even, and create a uniform bouncing surface. You can buy rectangular trampolines in sizes startingas small as 10 feet in length.

By contrast, round trampolines have springs positioned around the perimeter and the tension tends to make a 'sweet spot' in the very center. If you move out of the center, the focus of the tension shifts, making it harder to maintain your balance. The frame needed is lighter, and can be made of less expensive materials, making them cheaper to buy than other shapes.

There are special considerations if you're buying a trampoline for the garden or yard for children to use. Pediatricians and children's safety experts warn against allowing children to use standard trampolines for a number of reasons. These include the possibility of little fingers getting caught in trampoline springs, children falling off the edge of trampolines and children injuring themselves attempting tricks that they aren't ready for. Because of those safety concerns, there are trampolines designed specifically for children that use a different style of spring, and accessories available to make trampolining safer for them. Among those are enclosure nets and non-slip surfaces.

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Hydroponics Light plays a major part in your success of your hydroponics project. Most hydroponic gardens are indoors and as such they need to have lighting of some kind. While you may be tempted to try using incandescent bulbs and lamps for light in your hydroponics system, they don't provide the right kind of light that your plants will need to thrive and grow. Hydroponics systems need full spectrum lighting that mimics the light from the sun. Specific types of hydroponics gardens will also need a specific type of lighting.

Many of you that are looking to put together a hydroponics kit will find that there is a range of hydroponics lighting on the market.

Hydroponic vegetables grow best in blue spectrum light, which is a cooler form of light. Metal Halide lights are the most popular form of blue spectrum lighting. Hydroponics flowering plants grow best in red-orange light. The best type of red-orange light is the high pressure sodium light (HPS).

Blue spectrum light is great for leafy plants, such as Lettuce, Radish, or Collard. It garden hose reel cart also helps to keep the plant nice and compact. Many can find the plants in their hydroponics garden getting leggy as it strains for the light, blue light helps to combat this. This is the best type of hydroponics system light for a primary light source. The average Metal Halide light gives around ten thousand hours of good light. After that it will start to put out less and less light. The average Metal Halide light sold can put out a range of light from 175 watts to 1000 watts or more. The wattage output you choose depends on how big your hydroponics system is. Are you just putting together a small homemade hydroponics kit or are you setting up a larger hydroponics garden?

High Pressure Sodium lights producing an orange-red spectrum last around eighteen thousand hours of use. It's best for flowering plants, such as paper whites and iris. The orange-red light stimulates plants hormones, which makes for more flowering in the plant. Be careful about placing a young plant under red-orange light. It may grow very quickly but you will see only vertical growth and it will become lanky and thin. This is because of the lack of blue spectrum light available to the new plant. The average wattage is about the same for red-orange lights, ranging from 175 to 1000 watts. Of course if your looking to cover more area then you can find professional grow lights in any spectrum with a higher wattage.

The best way to light your hydroponics system seems to be with a combination of blue and red-orange light, to keep plants compact and flowering. Or you can simply purchase a full spectrum light. You can buy fluorescent lights for this. They are available in tubes or compact bulbs. Fluorescent lighting is mostly used to grow seedlings, but it will certainly grow a plant to maturity. This type of lighting can be an easy way to light your hydroponics system without the complication of hooking up both blue and red-orange lights or remembering which is which.

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This is the time of the year that I keep hearing the question "When do I harvest my grapes?" Or sometimes the question is phrased "Are my water hose spray guns grapes ripe yet?" And then there's the "Are they ready yet?"Yes, it's that time of the year when grapes are turning color and homeowners are thinking about when their grapes will be harvested. But many homeowners think that when the color turns, the grapes are ready to eat. They pick a few colored berries and pop them in their mouths only to find that there is very little flavor and a puckering feeling hits their pallets.

Just because the color has turned on your grapes, it doesn't mean they're ripe. Generally speaking, grapes need one to three weeks after turning color to be considered ripe for harvest. But this time frame is dependent upon many factors including the variety, what the grapes are to be used for, and environmental conditions like the weather.The grape variety has a lot to do with how quickly the grapes will ripen. Varieties are classified as early, mid-season, and late depending on how many days it takes for the grapes to go from full bloom of the flowers to harvest ripeness (Usually compared to the Concord variety). It should be obvious that early varieties will ripen fast and be picked much earlier than late varieties. If you grow a variety that is considered late in an area with a short growing season of less than 170 days, the grapes will never get totally ripe.

What you are going to use the grapes for goes hand-in-hand with the variety. Each variety has been bred for specific uses. Some are table grapes. These are used for eating. There are jam and juice grapes. And then there are wine grapes. Each are harvested by sugar content and acidity.Table grapes don't need as much sugar as wine grapes to be considered ripe. They usually reach between 16 and 18 percent sugar before they are ready to harvest. For the homeowner with grapes in the backyard or garden this is hard to measure. But since you are going to eat them, you only need to taste the grapes to determine if they are ready. The flavor components are as important as the sugar level of the grapes. When they get to the point where you think they taste good, then pick them.

Be sure to taste more than one berry to determine this though. Not all grape berries are ripe at the same time. Berries in different parts of the cluster ripen at slightly different times. Clusters don't all ripen at the same time either. Clusters in the sunshine ripen quicker than those that are shaded. Clusters towards the base of the shoot ripen earlier than those towards the tip of the shoot.

Wine grapes need more sugar to produce a higher alcohol content when fermented. Grape growers like wine grapes to reach 20 - 24 percent sugar ideally. Here again, this is variety dependent. Acidity is also important when considering the ripeness of wine grapes. Too high acidity will make the wine taste acidic and bitter and too low will make the wine flat.

If you are growing grapes to make wine, you might want to invest in an instrument called a refractometer to measure the sugar content of your grapes. This tool makes it easy to find out how much sugar is in one or more berries. The juice of the berries is squeezed onto the refractometer plate, the plate is closed, and then by holding the instrument towards the light you can look into the eyepiece and see what the sugar reading is.

A less expensive means is to use a hygrometer. You need at least 50 berries to determine the sugar content by this method though. Hygrometers are more accurate than a refractometer and that's the trade-off. The hygrometer is floated in the grape juice obtained by squeezing the berries and the sugar content is read off the scale in the neck of the hygrometer.

Acidity can be measured by the titration method. But this is more in the realm of the chemist than the hobby grape grower. Because the pH of the juice is related to the acidity, it is more convenient for the small grower to use a portable "pH pen". A pH of between 3.00 and 3.55 generally indicates that the acidity of the grapes is in the for making wine. This also will depend on the variety.

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With an increasing tendency for empty nesters, young couples and singles towards higher density inner city living, and the desire to spend minimal time on maintaining gardens or other outdoor spaces, most new apartments, townhouses and condominiums tend to have only pocket sized backyards, courtyards or balconies. So it becomes particularly important to make the most of such limited areas by landscaping and utilizing the space in the best possible way.

But you don't have to be a professional landscape architect to create an inviting courtyard space - you just have to follow a few basic design principles. Whilst you can't physically increase the size of a small garden, you can certainly employ a few visual tricks to create the illusion of space.

One important way of doing this is to create a thematic link between the indoor and outdoor areas. Linking the backyard or courtyard to the family room or kitchen, breaks down the division between inside and outside, making the total area appear larger. To establish this link, try to use paving materials that are similar to those used in the house. If you have a tiled area inside, consider extending the same or similar tiles outside.

If you have a solid wood or wood laminate floor, one simple solution is to lay interlocking wood deck tiles on the external patio or courtyard (see for example ezydeck.net). Although such tiles are best laid over a concrete pad, they can also be laid over a level and well compacted gravel surface. And they can be moved and re-laid at will should you decide to change the design of your outdoor space at any time.

Light colours in the paving and on the courtyard walls will also create an impression of space, so lighter colored tiles would generally be preferable in small spaces.

In confined spaces, more space should be devoted to sitting & walking areas than to plants which should be placed in wide, raided beds. Deck tiles could be used plastic tap adaptor as stepping stones? along a pathway interspersed with gravel or stones and bordered by plantings.

A favourite piece of sculpture can be used a focal point providing it is in keeping with the general theme of the courtyard. But don't overdo the garden art. One sculpture or water feature is more than enough.

Clan simple lines are generally better in small situations rather than a ?busy? appearance and a formal look is usually more suitable than an informal look. Several large pots or planter boxes will look less cluttered than numerous small ones.

Avoid using flowers with strong red, yellow or orange colours as they tend to ?advance? towards you. Blues, purples and grays are preferable because they are not dominating. And make sure plants are selected for all round appeal and not just for a brief burst of colour for a few weeks, but dull for the rest of the year.

With a bit of planning, even the smallest of areas can be made to look larger than you may think.

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Dig and turn over the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches (30 cm), preferably double that if you propose to plant small trees or shrubs, and remove weeds and grass. Test the soil with a kit which you can buy from any garden centre. If your soil is alkaline (i.e. has lime in it) you will not be able to grow plants of the same family as sprinkler factory rhododendrons and heathers without adjusting the pH but in general an average acidity will support most plants.

The acidity or alkalinity of the soil is measured by pH (potential Hydrogen ions). As a rule of thumb, soils in moist climates inclines towards the acid and those in dry climates tend to be alkaline. A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acid soil and one with a pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline. To raise the pH and make soil more alkaline, add lime and to make it more acid (lower the pH), add sulphur. Proprietary products are available to alter the soil pH. Follow the manufacturers? instructions for dosage and application carefully.

Don't drop it! Tease out the ends of the roots from the root ball very carefully, unless the planting instructions specifically tell you not to disturb the roots, in which case, leave them as they are. Pop the plant into the centre of the hole and making sure it stays upright, shovel in more of the soil, compost, fertilizer mixture. With your foot, very very gently, firm down the soil around the plant until it reaches the point where the rim of the pot was. Water in very well. If you live in a hot climate, insert a watering drip system as you plant each item. Mulch around the plant with compost, bark or gravel to keep weeds down and moisture in.

Probably, the most common goal of the hobbyist gardener is to create something of beauty that will bring pleasure to themselves and to others. Although it is not absolutely necessary to be an expert, some basic knowledge must be acquired to produce a good end result. You will for instance need to know what plants are suitable for your particular climatic conditions, as well as the type of soil and theterrain that is found in your garden area. You will need to know as well which plants are suitable for shady areas, partially shaded, or full sun areas.

Some other things to be taken into consideration when planning your garden is the position of the plants and trees which are already on the land, as well as paths, driveways, a swimming pool, walls or fences. Consider also the direction of prevailing winds. Will they have adverse effects on particular varieties of plant? If you live in a built up area, you should also consider the neighbouring properties, to see if your plans will blend with them.

The planning of a garden is obviously affected by one's personal taste. Some may prefer a more formal style of garden, using plants that are not indigenous to the area, as well as elaborate features such as statues, fountains, seats etc. These gardens are usually 'geometric' in their design, with obvious straight lines, regular curves and symmetrical balance. Others may prefer a more natural look and feel for their garden, using a lot more indigenous plants and materials such as the rocks and stone naturally found in the area. Depending on the size of your property, you could even combine the two styles.

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The secret to making your flowering trees, shrubs, annuals, and perennials bloom more is in the numbers. All fertilizers have analysis numbers on the package. These numbers represent the percentage of each chemical the fertilizer contains.

For example, 12-12-12 is a typical garden fertilizer that would contain 12% nitrogen, 12% phosphorous, and 12% potassium. The quick explanation is; nitrogen produces vegetative, or top growth, phosphorous produces flower buds, fruit, and root development, while potassium builds strong healthy plants.

Most lawn grasses are vigorous growers and therefore require significantly more nitrogen than the other plants in your yard. A lawn fertilizer would have an analysis of 26-3-3, indicating a fertilizer high in irrigation impact sprinkler nitrogen. You would not want to use a fertilizer containing such a high percentage of nitrogen on landscape plants because it would be very easy to burn them. You must also keep in mind that many lawn fertilizers contain broadleaf weed killers, and most ornamental plants have broad leaves. The fertilizer doesn't know the difference, and it will damage or kill ornamental trees and shrubs.

During the summer months the growth rate of most plants slows down, and when plants are not actively growing, they need very little nitrogen. Although not vigorously putting on new growth, many plants such as Dogwood Trees, Rhododendrons, and Azaleas are quietly working to produce flower buds for next year. Annual and perennial flowers are also busy making new flower buds.

To encourage flower bud production you can apply a fertilizer that contains a small percentage of nitrogen, a higher percentage of phosphorous, and a little potassium. I recently purchased a liquid fertilizer with an analysis of 5-30-5, ideal for flower production. Because the product is sold as a bloom producer, the manufacture also added a little chelated iron, manganese, and zinc, all good for your plants as well.

Most garden centers and discount stores carry similar products. I chose a liquid fertilizer because liquid fertilizers are absorbed both through the roots and systemically through the foliage, so they work quicker. I used a sprayer that attaches to the end of the garden hose to apply the fertilizer, but do not use the same hose end sprayer that you use for lawn fertilizers. There could be residual weed killer still in the sprayer.

About those hose end sprayers. I purchased one that is supposed to automatically mix the proper ratio for you. I used it to apply a general insecticide, and it worked, but it sure seemed like I went through a lot more insecticide than I needed. When I used it for the fertilizer the screen on the little pick up hose inside the jar kept getting clogged with the tiny solids in the fertilizer. I recommend using a solution of one part liquid fertilizer to one part water in the sprayer jar, and applying at a heavier rate.

Watch the liquid in the sprayer jar, and if it isn't going down remove the lid and clean the little screen by spraying it with water from the garden hose. Read the application instructions on the container to determine how much fertilizer to apply, and how often. A fertilizer high in phosphorous will increase flower production. You will see a difference. Remember the golden rule of applying fertilizers. "Not enough is always better than too much."

You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate link.

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You will occasionally want to move a rose bush from one location to another, but fear shocking the bush too much and having it die. However, here are two effective ways to minimize the shock to the bush so you can successfully move it to another, more suitable place in your flower garden.

The first, and simpler way, is by driving a spade down vertically to its full length of blade about twelve or fifteen inches from the bush and repeating the process in a circular form until all lateral roots have been cut. This should be done in June or early July and the bush should be moved two or three weeks later.

Dig a sloping hole leading to the vertical spade-cuts on one side, remove some of the surface soil round the bush to reduce weight, drive the spade under the plant, and gently lift it in a ball of earth. The ball can be made more adherent by wetting and dabbing the outside of it. Slide it into its new hole by way of another sloping cut, fill the spaces round the ball with friable soil and water it heavily. The bush must be pruned and all leaves carefully clipped off to reduce loss of moisture and consequent shrivelling.

You see, by cutting any strong root at a reasonable distance from a plant, it forces the growth of many smaller ones of the feeding type. Roots feed only through their terminal points, and so the greater the number of small fibrous roots the better a bush can feed from the soil.

The second, and less simple way, is to prepare the rose for the move by digging a trench in early spring in a semicircle round the bush at a radius of a foot, or slightly more, from Wholesale lrrigation lmpact Sprinklers Factory the stem, depending on the size of the plant. This will cut the roots in that part. Fill the trench with loam that is of good quality but does not contain fermenting manure of any type. A network of fibrous secondary roots will form and permeate the rich new soil. After three months, about Christmas time, complete the circle in a similar manner. In the autumn, about four months later, the bush can be lifted with a good ball of earth held together by a mass of fibrous roots.

The rose bush has been safely root-pruned in either method of transplanting, and will reduce shock ensuring the plants survival. You may be wondering why you would need to use that second, more involved method, when the first method is so simple. Well, the only time it is necessary is when moving a very large old rose plant.

So now you have 2 great methods for successfully transplanting rose bushes. Although you don't want to do it very often, feel free to get your flower garden just the way you want it! Happy planting.

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Blue flowers are some of the most striking plants around and can add a rich splash of color to any garden. Plant them in a cluster of all blue or mix them in with other flowers for a rainbow of color.

When planting flowers, it is important to remember to follow the instructions on the tag for the plant. Always buy plants that will thrive in the conditions in which water hose spray guns you intend to grow them. A plant that loves sun will not do well in a shady area and you will only be disappointed with the results.

When planning your garden, be aware of the bloom time of the flowers. Planting perennials with different bloom times near each other will insure a garden that has blooms all season long. Remember also to plan for the height of the plants, putting the taller ones in the back.

Consider the flowers on the list below for your garden.Polemonuim aka Blue Pearl - A compact plant with deep sky blue flowers that grows to 10". It blooms in late spring to early summer. Plant in partial shade and in well drained soil.

Blue Sea Holly - This dramatic plant has a lavender blue cone like flower with long spiked petals. It grows to 30" and is a favorite for dried flower arrangements. Plant in full sun - blooms in mid to late summer.

Delphinium aka Butterfly Blue - Bright blue delicate flowers adorn a plant that blooms in early to mid summer. It reaches 10" tall and prefers a sunny location with rich moist soil.Campanula aka Blue Carpet - Bright blue to lilac colored flowers bloom for weeks in the middle of summer. This low growing perennial grows to 4" and prefers full sun with well-drained soil.

Penstemon aka Blue Buckle - This plant has tubular shaped blooms in blue to purple and flowers in mid summer to early fall. It grows to 15" and likes well-drained soil with full or partial sun.Hydrangea aka Nikko Blue - Gigantic clumps of blue flowers adorn this shrub for most of the summer. In the fall, the flowers turn a golden color. This plant is a new variety that prefers rich soil but will grow in shade, partial sun, or full sun.

Vinca - Medium blue flowers and glossy green leaves form a carpet that grows to about 6" tall and blooms in mid spring. This plant will grow in most soil conditions, in the shade or sun.Ajuga aka Bronze Beauty - This short bushy plant has spikes of blue flowers that grows quickly. Great as a ground cover or in raised beds. It blooms in spring and prefers a shady area.

Scabiosa aka Butterfly Blue - A bushy perennial with lavender blue flowers that bloom from June to October. This plant likes full sun and attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.Verbena aka Babylon Blue - Blue purple flowers petals adorn a plant that blooms in early spring. Great for window boxes and planters.

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Decorative Birdhouses are active garden ornamentation --the presence and movement of birds creates a fluid focal point for your garden. As such, placement is critical for you to earn maximum benefit from your birdhouses. Cavity nesting birds will not be attracted to your garden without the appropriate environment.

Each bird has a particular way they want to live and specific needs.You'll have a better chance of getting the feathered tenant of your choice if you do your research. For example, if you want to host Eastern Bluebirds, you'll need to place the birdhouse at approximately 5 feet high and provide an entrance of 1 ? inch in diameter. On the other hand, The Northern Flicker is drawn by heights of up to 30 feet and needs a southeast facing home. Wrens like their nests to be located in shrubs, while Swallows desire close proximity to bodies of water.

Building a pond or enhancing an existing one will make your garden more attractive to these particular birds. You will also enjoy the added aesthetic.In addition to bird knowledge, you can attract most birds with a birdbath, carefully selected foliage, and plants that bear fruit. However, keep these a distance from the birdhouse so that the birds occupying it will not have to compete to keep it. If you don't want to mount a pole in your garden area, you can attach your birdhouse to a tree limb, tree trunk, or fence post.

Additional tips are as follows:Situate the birdhouse entrance in such a way as to avoid overheating it.Place the birdhouse out of the way of predators like cats and coyotes.Allow for a clear flight pattern to the entrance sprinkler-factory Wholesale Water Hose Spray Guns Factory hole.

Place the appropriate nesting material near your birdhouse to make it easy for birds to settle in.Keep bird food fresh.Birdhouses provide shelter for birds and also entertaining decor for you and your guests. The birds' presence provides dramatic beauty as the scenery changes each time you glance into your garden.

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